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Water Pressure Calculator

m

From the water level in the tank down to the outlet.

bar

From the pump gauge. Leave at zero for gravity only.

m

Bar lost per metre of pipe.

Each one costs a little pressure.

Your answer

Pressure at the tap

0 bar

Weak. Many showers will not work properly.

From tank height
0.6 bar
From the pump
0 bar
Lost along the pipe
0.6 bar
Lost at bends and valves
0.16 bar
In psi
0 psi

Pressure and flow are different things. This gives you pressure. If your problem is that two taps cannot run at once, that is flow and pipe size.

Water Pressure Calculator for Dubai and the UAE

This tool works out the water pressure at a tap. It starts with how high the tank is above the outlet, then takes off what is lost along the pipe.

The answer is given in bar and in psi, and it tells you what that pressure will feel like at a shower.

Height is the whole basis of it. Every metre the water falls adds pressure, and every metre of pipe it travels through takes a little back.

Where pressure comes from

In a gravity system, pressure comes entirely from height. Water in a tank higher up pushes down on everything below it.

The rule is simple and worth remembering: ten metres of height gives about one bar of pressure. So a tank six metres above a tap gives about 0.6 bar before anything is lost.

That is why a top floor flat in a building with a roof tank often has weak showers. There is barely any height between the tank and the tap, so there is barely any pressure.

It is also why the ground floor of the same building has strong pressure, sometimes too strong.

A pump adds pressure directly, which is why a booster pump is the answer where height cannot be.

What pressure feels like

Rough guide to how the number translates into a shower.

  • Under 0.5 bar

    Weak. Many mixer showers and most electric or thermostatic units will not work properly at all below this.

  • 0.5 to 1 bar

    Usable but soft. Fine for taps, disappointing for a shower, and a rain head will barely work.

  • 1 to 2 bar

    Normal and comfortable. Most fittings are designed around this range.

  • 2 to 4 bar

    Strong. Good for rain showers and for feeding several outlets at once.

  • Over 5 bar

    Too high. It stresses joints, makes taps hard to close, wastes water and shortens the life of flexible hoses. A reducing valve is the fix.

Pressure and flow are not the same thing

This is the single most common confusion in plumbing, and it sends people to the wrong solution.

Pressure is how hard the water pushes. Flow is how much of it arrives. You can have plenty of one and not enough of the other.

A thin pipe with a tall tank above it has good pressure and poor flow. Water comes out fast and hard from a small opening, but two outlets cannot run at once.

A wide pipe with almost no height has good flow and poor pressure. Plenty of water, but it dribbles rather than sprays.

The way to tell them apart is easy. If one tap alone is weak, that is pressure. If one tap alone is fine but everything collapses when a second opens, that is flow, which means pipe size.

Fitting a pump to a flow problem does not fix it. It just pushes the same limited amount of water through the same narrow pipe faster and noisier.

What takes pressure away

The tank height is what you start with. These are what reduce it before the water reaches you.

  • Distance

    Friction acts along the whole pipe. A tap at the far end of a villa sees less pressure than one near the riser.

  • Bends and fittings

    Every elbow and tee costs a little. A run with many changes of direction behaves like a much longer straight pipe.

  • Narrow or scaled pipe

    Old galvanised line narrows from the inside. This is the usual reason an old building slowly loses pressure over years.

  • Filters and softeners

    Anything the water passes through costs pressure, and a filter cartridge that is overdue for changing costs a lot more.

  • Partly closed valves

    Left half shut after a repair. Free to fix once somebody finds it.

  • Height climbed

    Every metre the water has to go up takes back a tenth of a bar. An upper floor always sees less than a lower one.

When you need a booster pump

A pump is the answer when there is not enough height, and only then.

The clear cases are a top floor flat where the tank sits barely above the ceiling, and a villa where the tank is on the ground rather than the roof.

Before fitting one, rule out the cheap causes. A blocked filter, a half closed valve, a scaled section of pipe or a clogged aerator all look like low pressure and none of them need a pump.

If a pump is the answer, size it properly. Too big is worse than too small here, because an oversized pump cycles on and off constantly, wears out its own switch, and hammers the pipework.

And whatever is fitted needs dry run protection. A pump that runs with an empty tank destroys its own seal in seconds, and that is the most common way pumps die in this country.

Questions people ask

How do I calculate water pressure from tank height?

Every ten metres of height gives about one bar. So a tank six metres above the tap gives roughly 0.6 bar before any losses along the pipe.

What is normal water pressure in a home?

Between about one and two bar is comfortable for taps and showers. Below half a bar most showers will not work properly, and above five bar starts stressing the pipework.

Why is my top floor shower weak?

Usually because there is very little height between the roof tank and the outlet, so there is very little pressure. This is the standard case for a booster pump.

Will a pump fix my weak shower?

Only if the problem is pressure. If one tap alone is fine and everything collapses when two run together, that is flow and pipe size, and a pump will not solve it.

How many bar is a psi?

One bar is about 14.5 psi. So two bar is roughly 29 psi. The tool shows both.

Can water pressure be too high?

Yes. Above about five bar it stresses joints and flexible hoses, makes taps hard to shut, and wastes water. A pressure reducing valve brings it back to a safe range.

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